This is a WIP page to explain some of the questions you may have during assembly. Go to the discord server's #questions channel to ask more questions.
- Solder diodes
- Solder sockets
- Solder ProMicro
- Cut excess promicro headers
- Solder OLED
- Solder encoder
- Install switches in case
- Attach PCB to switch pins via sockets
- Close case
- The “front” of the macropad has much less silkscreen - the switches are just outlined by corner markings. The backside has outlines for the sockets, numbered labels for each component, etc.
- The ProMicro is installed on the backside of the PCB, with the components facing outwards.
- The OLED display has had its pins removed - you’ll need to place it directly on the PCB, and use the included spare pins to attach it from the back side.
- One way to do this is to install one pin through from the backside of the PCB. Keep the plastic header pieces on the bottom side. Then, put the OLED on the front side, with the hole on top of the pin. If the hole already has solder in it, just add a small amount of solder to the existing solder, then keep it flowing and sink the pin through the OLED.
- Diodes are installed on the back side, with the lines facing to the left (pointing “towards” the ProMicro).
- The case backplate has a small cylinder sticking up from it - this supports the backside of the PCB behind the encoder to prevent it from moving when you press on the encoder.
- The reset switch location works - if your kit doesn’t have a button, just use tweezers to jump the pads.
- OLEDs will be easier to install - holes will be free, making the 4-pin header much easier to install (like the microcontroller).
- Added reset switches
- Flipped encoder silkscreen to opposite side
- Added top and bottom labels
- Added encoder, controller, and OLED labels to denote the correct side
- Reset switch outline on top of board removed